Breath

Tonight I learned a secret. I was at the gym, alone again doing some circuits. The last problem, my last attempt I think I had a revelation. I learned how to breath properly or at least differently, I feel like I discovered a secret.

It's not that I have not experimented with different on route breathing patterns but tonight magic happened. I went from utterly flaccid and fatigued and floated the route. It was a special moment for me.

I have a secret, I am not telling anyone...at least until I make sure it works again tommorow?

Bolt Chopping

Funny, I did not think anyone would actually do it but, someone actually chopped a recently retro bolted route at our local crag.

There are always justifications on both sides for adding extra non-original bolts. Both sides usually have seemingly good arguments. Typically the bolter hides behind safety issues and the chopper hides behind history.

I personally have a strong belief, but every route and situation has grey areas to make it interesting.

For me I think rebolting routes when the time comes is fine. I do not think adding extra bolts (retrobolting) for any reason without the first ascentionists permission is ok. Even with permission I think adding extra bolts takes away an with opportunity for future generations to experience routes as natural as possible. Inherently adding any bolts takes away opportunity for future generations, so it should never be taken lightly. No one is perfect every situation is worth a review but this I think is what to aspire to for me.

In this particular case the first ascentionist had passed away and bolts were added to make the route safer.

They were added on the 5.8 section of a 10d climb.
The route is an area classic and there is gear available where one of the bolts were added.

I think the bolt removal, while unpopular with some was correct, but would anger less people if it was discussed with the retrobolter just out of community spirit.

Here is my question: assuming what is done is done and now the remaining bolt is out of place with respect to the original route what should be done if there are only 2 choices? There are tons of scenarios but if there are only two options what do you think?

1) Chop it and replace a new bolt by the original location
2) Leave the remaining bolt alone (it is not significantly different)

Hampton Marsh

Just got back from Hampton Marsh. It has been a while since I have been there and there have been a bunch of new routes added since. I did not get a chance to climb them all, but I was happy to see the development.

The bolt jobs are pretty bad on a couple of the routes I climbed, I certainly would not want to be near my limit on those routes! Still nice to have them though.

I am actually physced to go back there now and try the rest.

The big news for me was my Mom stopped by and tried climbing for her first time. She did awesome I was so proud of her. She has always been my biggest supporter and now she has had a chance to try it herself! Wicked job mom!

Kingston Lake Road

I visited a newly bolted crag in Kingston today. I checked out this area for potential in 1998ish, right when I first started climbing and lived in the area. At that time I found a single red rap sling indicating someone else had the same idea, although I am not sure who. At the time I dismissed the area cause it was dirty and a lot of work and needed bolts, which at the time was not in my vocabulary.

The area has since been developed as a sport crag with a ton of work! There are quite a few lines up to almost 100ft. I was quite impressed with the cliff but especially the effort to create it.

It is a super convenient area easy approach and great for new climbers. I think the climbing looks ugly but climbs quite well and there is potential with some work for a few harder climbs. We will see what time brings.

The guide is HERE