Sanatorium Quebec

Last weekend I went out to a new crag in quebec, dubbed the Sanatorium, with a couple friends who are developing it. I have not seen much like it before, overhanging granite with actual holds, pinches, pockets, underclings, cracks, edges, all kinds of holds. At this point there are about 5 lines up, 2 are still projects. On the main face the 3 lines are 13c,d,d quite hard. We warmed up trying a 13d! There is not much to warm up on yet, thankfully the holds are friendly.

It felt good to try out my finger after a few weeks rest, it seemed pretty good, I only gave 3 redpoints, not to push it to hard. It was sore after, but no damage was done and I had a ton of fun. I didn't do the route, but figured out all the moves by my third try. I should be able to do it next time up.

I was surprised that my endurance felt great, my power was down, but it did not matter for these routes. The advantage of bouldering so much is the moves, on even hard routes, feel comparatively easy usually for me, its just a matter of figuring out the sequences.

I know one of my weaknesses is body positioning. These routes were balancy and subtle, I could not power through them like in the gym or more gymnastic outdoor areas. Granite it like that I find. It was fun to force myself to get in balance not just pull for a change.

Here is a pic of Jeff B on his project, my photography does not do it justice.

Fingers?

I hesitantly tried the gym tonight to see how my finger was. I did not crimp or really try anything hard but it felt ok. It is unusual that such swelling does not seem to be linked to anything specific? I don't know how it can be so swollen, with no feeling one day and ok a few days later. It makes me hesitant to trust it without knowing what it is. I guess I am going to have to try it slowly and hope for the best? Better news then a ruptured pulley though.

I am proud of myself for not testing the finger yet. Typically, I would have at least tried it the next day to gauge how bad the injury was. After the long hiatus last year, I know I can rest and come back quick and strong, so there is no pressure, but I want to climb so much. My motivation is strong, which is great. I may try easy tonight, maybe focus on some endurance for a week or so.

In the meantime I have been riding a ton, which feels good for a change, some days twice a day 6am and 7pm. It has been great.

Zig has been bolting some stuff in NS which has been getting me interested. Time for a NS trip once I heal.

Injured!!!!

I Injured my index finger last night. I was so happy to get to the gym after a few days off in montreal. Well rested, I felt strong, the weight vest routine has been going great.

I don't know what happened,no crimps, no pain no idea. I dropped off the wall went to get a drink came back and couldn't feel my finger. In minutes it doubled in size around the base and stayed numb. No soreness though, none at all, not like a pulley injury.

I left, iced, ate Advil and went riding.

Today it is still a bit swollen, but the feeling is back and no major soreness, I have no idea what it is, but its not good. Not the ligament, seemingly not the tendon or pulley. I am wondering if I grabbed a hold so hard it squished the tendon onto the nerve or something? Can that happen?

I thought I had had all the finger tweaks one could get, but nope. I should stay of it, but if it was just something settling into place or has been crushed, climbing might be fine? I don't know. I have had wrist problems for weeks, where it felt out of joint and hurt, then one day a huge pain and things felt better within a day, like something was tight, unaligned and out of place. I had a funny pain in the finger for months and thought nothing of it. Its now gone, but swollen and a bit tingly.

I am going to ride like a fiend for a few days, before trying to go back at it. There is no worse climbing time, then the injury comeback, not knowing how hard to push or when, it destroys confidence. I still hate pockets after my young days and pulley injuries. Probably irrational, now that I am stronger?

Reunion

Well I had a wicked time at the reunion, it is so great to get together for a happy reason not a funeral. I find the older I get the busier family life gets the less able we are to make time to all get together in one place. But get together we did and had an awesome time, kids went boating and swimming we ate, drank listened to the band and had a blast.

We also managed to start a new tradition, Tour de Bowles inaugural 2009. Modeled after the Tour de France (ahem...less hardcore) we headed out for a group bike ride, off road, with road bikes and ended at the pub in the rain. I have not had that much fun on my bike in years.

Time for some training as soon as I get back to make up for all this fun.

Magog Quebec

I am n Magog Quebec for a family reunion which I am physced about. I think there are over 70 relatives coming. It is nice to all get together for a good reason rather than a funeral. I find only for weddings and funerals most people will go out of there way to attend and since most of the weddings are over for my generations all to often gatherings are not happy times. This time however, it is for happy times!

I just got back from the party which was great. My family knows how to have fun and most of the old guys are still up and I am off to bed! They outlasted me again. Tomorrow morning I will get them when we all go cycling.

Magog is an awesome town with tons to do in all seasons. I am hoping to get up to the Mont Orford climbing area to check it out while I am here, it looks great in the guide book and it has been years since I was up there, before I was a climber. I just checked out the online guide and there are quite a few difficult routes up there and quite concentrated too. I think it warrants a fall trip up here this year.

So much to do so little time.