Thanks Zig!

The last thing of note I did comp wise was Nationals in May. I had a horrible flu, but went anyway and as expected it did not go as planned. I was hoping to be on my game as returning champ, but it was not to be. It is harder to stay on top then get there in the first place...a good lesson. Anyway, I ended 6th in a strong field and it was very close, one hold was the differnece in 3 spots. Pics to come.

Here is an pic of the original orangahang on dover before it was damaged by the hurrican. Photo by Mike Meade.


Ok its been a while for tons of reasons, but I just noticed Zig has been updating his blog again with awesome old pics from Nova Scotia. He gave me my motivation back to post! Thanks Zig, check out his blog here.

Breath

Tonight I learned a secret. I was at the gym, alone again doing some circuits. The last problem, my last attempt I think I had a revelation. I learned how to breath properly or at least differently, I feel like I discovered a secret.

It's not that I have not experimented with different on route breathing patterns but tonight magic happened. I went from utterly flaccid and fatigued and floated the route. It was a special moment for me.

I have a secret, I am not telling anyone...at least until I make sure it works again tommorow?

Bolt Chopping

Funny, I did not think anyone would actually do it but, someone actually chopped a recently retro bolted route at our local crag.

There are always justifications on both sides for adding extra non-original bolts. Both sides usually have seemingly good arguments. Typically the bolter hides behind safety issues and the chopper hides behind history.

I personally have a strong belief, but every route and situation has grey areas to make it interesting.

For me I think rebolting routes when the time comes is fine. I do not think adding extra bolts (retrobolting) for any reason without the first ascentionists permission is ok. Even with permission I think adding extra bolts takes away an with opportunity for future generations to experience routes as natural as possible. Inherently adding any bolts takes away opportunity for future generations, so it should never be taken lightly. No one is perfect every situation is worth a review but this I think is what to aspire to for me.

In this particular case the first ascentionist had passed away and bolts were added to make the route safer.

They were added on the 5.8 section of a 10d climb.
The route is an area classic and there is gear available where one of the bolts were added.

I think the bolt removal, while unpopular with some was correct, but would anger less people if it was discussed with the retrobolter just out of community spirit.

Here is my question: assuming what is done is done and now the remaining bolt is out of place with respect to the original route what should be done if there are only 2 choices? There are tons of scenarios but if there are only two options what do you think?

1) Chop it and replace a new bolt by the original location
2) Leave the remaining bolt alone (it is not significantly different)

Hampton Marsh

Just got back from Hampton Marsh. It has been a while since I have been there and there have been a bunch of new routes added since. I did not get a chance to climb them all, but I was happy to see the development.

The bolt jobs are pretty bad on a couple of the routes I climbed, I certainly would not want to be near my limit on those routes! Still nice to have them though.

I am actually physced to go back there now and try the rest.

The big news for me was my Mom stopped by and tried climbing for her first time. She did awesome I was so proud of her. She has always been my biggest supporter and now she has had a chance to try it herself! Wicked job mom!

Kingston Lake Road

I visited a newly bolted crag in Kingston today. I checked out this area for potential in 1998ish, right when I first started climbing and lived in the area. At that time I found a single red rap sling indicating someone else had the same idea, although I am not sure who. At the time I dismissed the area cause it was dirty and a lot of work and needed bolts, which at the time was not in my vocabulary.

The area has since been developed as a sport crag with a ton of work! There are quite a few lines up to almost 100ft. I was quite impressed with the cliff but especially the effort to create it.

It is a super convenient area easy approach and great for new climbers. I think the climbing looks ugly but climbs quite well and there is potential with some work for a few harder climbs. We will see what time brings.

The guide is HERE

A Cowboys Life

I have been climbing in the gym quite a bit that last week or so, trying to get my volume up. I can't believe they just announced Continental Championships are in Ecuador this year and gave us only two months notice and are on the same dates as Canadian Nationals.

Considering Canada is one of the 3 key countries for North American Continentals, it seems stupid to conflict with dates set for the last 6 months? Whats a cowboy to do?

Tour de Bloc UNB

Qualified first, finals ended up second.

1) Eric Sethna
2) John Bowles
3) Matt Keyes

1) Holly Reid
2) Krissy Lunney
3) Shauna Post

The real story was Matt Keyes, he qualified in the 8th and final place but flipped to 3rd in finals with an awesome performance!

Considering the lack of climbing, traveling and new baby I was relatively happy. A beta mistake is what killed me in finals, so it was not too bad. I will be feeling good just in time for mid summer world cups, which is the current plan, if life does not get in the way. I am motivated!

The problems I think were the best quality qualifier problems of any tour I have been to. Props to Ghislain Losier for setting the great routes!

It is too bad the attendence sucked, I think it was due to the 18 degree sunny weather no locals came at all, but those who came from away were all strong, the field just was not that numerous. A shame really considering the awesome problems.

Edmonton Again

I spent another 12 days in Edmonton working. We did a 48hr straight shift then 12 hr nights plus 1.5hr drive each way the whole time combined with drives to Calgary. It destroyed me.

I did get one perfect day before I left in Lake Louise. I climbed a couple time dead tired in the gym which was great.

All and all i came home 3 times more tired then when I left.

We will see how this weekends comp goes with all that has gone on?

Climbing in the olympics

Here's hoping! 2020 would be the earliest it would make it in likely sport climbing only but that could change. The IFSC will have some serious work by 2013 to make it happen for 2020.

Here is an article I was interviewed for by the Globe and Mail.

William Robert Rankin Bowles

Ellen and I finally had our little boy William Robert Rankin Bowles Feb 12/10 12:54am. 9lb 15ou 23in long a monster! He did his first one arm Feb 14/10, aiming for one finger by March 15/10

Have you ever carved the perfect turn, had you synapses fire in perfect time allowing you to surprise yourself at your own capabilities.

Have you ever just flowed down the hill?

Have you ever lost yourself in thought, driven miles without realizing it, yet arrived ok?

Have you ever sat at the top of a climb looking over a valley and felt part of the environment and completely at peace.

Have you ever had something tell you it is just going to be ok?

The thing that just keeps you coming back every time.

Perspective

If you understand PERSPECTIVE, command it and control it, then there is truly nothing you cannot do; since what one believes in heart, becomes reality in the space of your mind. It may not be someone else's perceived reality, but if you can convince yourself, then it becomes truth to you.

Insane people have long demonstrated this as delusion, but used correctly it can become a powerful tool. I am not talking about bending reality necessarily, but taking a moment to view everyday life and what is going on around you, in a way you WANT it to be. In bad times it takes more effort then in good, however, in most situations there is hope, motivation, a lesson and some joy.

For myself it provides comfort to pause and take a moment to approach my thoughts from the opposite viewpoint, both positive and negative, the ultimate self-critical devil's advocate. Most decisions become clear with this approach. If you can involve a like minded partner the method can become even more powerful.

For an anal perfectionist looking for truth, constantly flipping 180 degrees in your mind changes perspective quickly.

Holly in Finals

I went to the Tour de Bloc Delire comp in Quebec last week. I have said it before and I will say it again, that gym is awesome! The people are great and they care a lot. Their team of organizers is top notch.

The attendance was huge I think they had about 50 juniors alone, probably over 150 total. Good for them.

The comp ran very smooth, but they did not use tape for qualifiers, they used color coded holds. I think this is a huge mistake. Being color blind and knowing 10% of the male population is also, it makes it nearly impossible to compete. I have to memorize the patterns before trying any problem with similar color holds. I watched a lot of people struggle even when they were not color blind. Once chalk gets on the top of a hold and you get above it, any similar color hold looks the same. I just don't get it, it has no benefit and has no place in comps. Its much cleaner for the gym for everyday use, but not comps.

I think they struggled a bit setting for a zone format finals, but overall the comp was really good, they do an awesome job a Delire.

For myself I ended up third. I was really unhappy with my finals performance. Problem 2 killed me. I could not get anywhere, my heel just would not stick. I new if I could get the first heel, I would do the problem, but just couldn't get it.

I had a great time and am physced to go to Delire for regionals.

The Vision - Canmore

Climbers all know Canmore. The place is basically ideally located for climbing. while I was out west I stopped by a friends gym - The Vision. I had never been there and really wanted to check it out.

The Vision is a small local wall with some really different angles packed into a tight space. I loved it, you could definitely get strong in there. I didn't have time to climb so I am not sure about the setting although it looked good but the atmosphere, colors lighting and wall were quite unique and looked really fun. Check it out if you are ever there.


The Vision in Canmore

Tour de Bloc Edmonton

CCC Finals mens 2 in black

This far after the comp I find it hard to motivate myself to write anything about it, but since people keep asking me how it went, I figure I will throw up a post and a few pics.

I unexpectedly finished the work I had in Edmonton early, so I asked Ellen ship me my shoes overnight courier for $90 and drove to Calgary for a Tour de Bloc comp at the calgary climbing center - Chinook. I had promised myself no comps until January, as I wanted to rest the fall to have no injuries for the winter and summer comp season. I really want to have some juice left for summer this year. I have found other years when I do 10 or 12 comps in the fall and winter by summer I am burnt out. This year I want to focus on summer comps in Europe if possible.

Anyway, not really being ready to compete and being out there for work not climbing, meant I had very few expectations, which I think leads to no anticipation, therefore climbing only in the moment. For me this is when I climb the best.

In qualifiers I climbed well and was sitting second without really pulling too hard. Sometimes I find I try harder then necessary in qualifiers and wreck myself for finals. This day I was happy with myself, that at least I climbed smart.

I felt great going out for finals, but it did not go my way this time. Problem one I flashed, but problem two I barley got off the ground. I rarely make full on beta mistakes, but I sure did on #2. I read it wrong and got nowhere at all. Problem three I fell off the final hold second and third try and problem four I made it part way. I ended up 4th. Normally I would be not happy with this at all, but this time the field was very strong, I think the comp had 150 people. Given my lack of climbing prep from traveling so much for work, I am quite happy with the result. I think I can be in good shape for spring if I can stay uninjured. Heres hoping.

Overall I think the Calgary Climbing Center is very impressive, the walls are good, setting great and people awesome. They put on a impressive comp. I gotta say though they need to come to the Maritimes to see how to throw an after party!


Lake Louise early winter conditions


On route to Canmore

The Committed

I finally ran into someone more committed to climbing than I could imagine. He had a carabeener tattooed on his throat. That is commitment. I was impressed!

Edmonton......again

Edmonton certainly is not my favorite place. It seems I have been away and off climbing for forever. Despite the lack of any sleep due to a course I have been on and traveling here, I forced a gym session tonight, which was fun. Unfortunatly though my skin completely sluffed off. The break must have weakened it badly. I hate it when this happens, it takes so long not be be wet again.

Vertically Inclined is a cool gym, more route focused than bouldering, but its nice to climb routes I did not set for once. They were all pretty easy which was disappointing. I sent the hardest comp route there in about 10 minutes. I am going to head to the other gym here in Edmonton on U of A campus, I hear that is where the tough stuff is. I am looking forward to it I have not been there since Nationals a few years ago. Hopefully I can hook up with some of the guys from around here to show me around.

I just heard there is a tour be bloc in Calgary this weekend. I might actually be able to go. I will have to see how the week goes work wise, its looking hectic. I am not sure even if I can go if I will. I was really looking forward to checking out the Rockies rather tan another indoor gym. We will see I guess, if the weather looks bad I might as well go and get the motivation back for comps!

Land of Confusion

John On his new nemisis When Stars Attack photo Ben Blakney

The weather just looked too good yesterday, so I took a work break and headed to NS for the day with Shawn and Liam. We did the LOC tour, with Ben B leading us, hitting four areas throughout the day. It was awesome to be back in Halifax bouldering, it has been a while. Thankfully we had Ben, as I am sure we would have been swallowed by the swamp without him.

My only goal was to force myself to get on some problems I had not done, had not been on before, or did not want to do. Work my weaknesses was my mandate. No laps on my favorites.

Everyone who went out sent tons, we climbed till after dark and got home at 2am, a good day worth and the drive for sure.

At Nouveau Rich I did everything there worthwhile, except one or two. I was very happy, as I had not done many, if any, in that area before. I flashed everything except Dynamitus. This route had my number, high steps and a necessary hip shift. I am horrible at that and was happy to get it. It probably took me 20+ tries over an hour and much lost skin.

Next we visited Corn and Bung. There was not much there I wanted to do, except an old nemesis, I never would put the time into, Can't Trust Skinny people. I am not sure what this route is graded, but whatever it is, I am sure it is a sandbag. I always looked at it and have tried if half heatedly in the past, but today I convinced myself I would send it and did first try. I was surprised, must have been good friction? I did a classics Captain Hook and Joe Boxer as well, which have to be two of the best routes in NS.

Next we were off to Scoop, what an awesome block, I did a couple laps on the classic Bop Gun, which was new for me and gave a couple tries to When Stars Attack, with no luck. I decided to save my skin for Kleos.

Kleos I had never been to, but had heard a lot about. It was late in the day but I wanted to try it badly and after about an hour sent it. It kind of surprised me, but I was super happy, it is a high quality line on good rock,

We headed for jack's arete next and did it in the dark, another great line. Liam gets the props here, he worked it until well after, dark blood gushing, with no complaints, so close, next time for sure.

Kamou

I took a quick day trip to Kamouraska, QC this weekend, for a day. It was cold in the morning, but we climbed a bunch of moderates and had a blast being outside.
An old pic of a few 5.11 classics at Kamou

On another note the bolting debate continues on the Climb Eastern Canada forum. Everyone gets quite bent out of shape about this topic. The internet is a great enabler, but it makes it hard to discuss certain topics unemotionally, as people are not selective about how they say things and often say things which in person they would not say and if they did say, would get a punch in the mouth for. This thread has remained quite civilized though.

My Bday

I feel old today, past my prime, low motivation and fat hahahhahahaha. I hope I still can get it done this season, its gonna be tougher. I need something new to strive for.

It seems my most likely form of exercise lately is going to be chopping bolts. Still not sure where the debate will go but I know the outcome;)

At least I still have some fight left hahahahahha

Bolting cracks

I am trying to keep my cool, rationalize and have tolerance of differing views, but it just does not make sense to me. Some days I think as I get older I mello out a bit, but man oh man I still have some strong feelings about some things. Bolting cracks is one of them.

Our local cliff has always had strong ethics, not as hardcore as North Conway, but along the same lines. You don't bolt cracks, you don't bolt within reach of other routes and bolts are only used where trad gear is not available. This has long since been decided in our area.

Every once in a while someone challenges this. Problem is the older crew diminishes new climbers with no historical perspective arrive and all hell breaks loose, verbal diarrhea flies and feelings get hurt. Its easier not to confront them at all, but dammit someone needs to.

A new route called DDT went up, bolts right beside a 5 star existing 5.6 crack climb. The new climbers like bolts and think its ok, well it's not, precedent and local ethics dictate something different and tolerance be damned , respect is in order. I hope the equiper steps up and decides to remove them himself.

I just don't get it?

New Day

I am at the gym, today dawns a new day. I am now officially back at it. I need to say it out loud to make it happen. Motivation has been elsewhere and is always hard to regain momentum. I am ready.

cool wall

This boggles my mind, we are so behind here in canada?

check it out

Bar Harbor, ME

I have not climbed outside for a while. You know when your soul aches for something, you just have to eventually give in. Monday I decided I just had to go so Liam and I head down to Maine Monday night with the plan to climb all day and drive home the next night and arrive in time to go to work. We drove 800km climbed until 3 hrs after dark (not on purpose), got home by 2:30am in plenty of time to make work, did about 32 pitches between us and had an awesome time.

It whetted my appetite did nothing to satiated by drive and now I am stuck back at work again. A few more hours and this weekend I will be teaching rock school our annual beginner event for 40 students in Welsford NB. Not exactly climbing fr me but a fun weekend out.

Here in an old pictured of me on Pipe Dreams a neat pin protected 5.12 in Bar Harbor.

Nationals Videos, Montreal 2009

Dr topo has the videos from nationals all done, here are the links:

Mens part 1
Mens part 2

Womens part 1
Womens part 2
Womens part 3

Kids Climbing and Getting Fat

I spent part of the week in PEI pitching a school for a wall installation project. It went well, I suspect it will go forward, but slowly. This will be the first "real" wall in a high school in the Maritimes I think. I need to get administration to see the value in just one, then use the model to propagate them through different districts. One step at a time I guess.

Friday morning I left PEI to NB to go to our ultrasound appointment. Ellen and I are having a boy! I am excited, it feels real now. I want to name him John III and just "three" for short. Ellen is not so keen. Not sure why really. I also suggested Riley, after our dog...I like the dog.

An couple hours after I found out, I was in the air for Edmonton Alberta for work for a week. So many distractions, it is impossible to train and I am eating bad. I am getting fat and have some work to do for comp season, but I am feeling healed and motivated, so I suspect as soon as I return and training resumes it will come back quick.

Sanatorium Quebec

Last weekend I went out to a new crag in quebec, dubbed the Sanatorium, with a couple friends who are developing it. I have not seen much like it before, overhanging granite with actual holds, pinches, pockets, underclings, cracks, edges, all kinds of holds. At this point there are about 5 lines up, 2 are still projects. On the main face the 3 lines are 13c,d,d quite hard. We warmed up trying a 13d! There is not much to warm up on yet, thankfully the holds are friendly.

It felt good to try out my finger after a few weeks rest, it seemed pretty good, I only gave 3 redpoints, not to push it to hard. It was sore after, but no damage was done and I had a ton of fun. I didn't do the route, but figured out all the moves by my third try. I should be able to do it next time up.

I was surprised that my endurance felt great, my power was down, but it did not matter for these routes. The advantage of bouldering so much is the moves, on even hard routes, feel comparatively easy usually for me, its just a matter of figuring out the sequences.

I know one of my weaknesses is body positioning. These routes were balancy and subtle, I could not power through them like in the gym or more gymnastic outdoor areas. Granite it like that I find. It was fun to force myself to get in balance not just pull for a change.

Here is a pic of Jeff B on his project, my photography does not do it justice.

Fingers?

I hesitantly tried the gym tonight to see how my finger was. I did not crimp or really try anything hard but it felt ok. It is unusual that such swelling does not seem to be linked to anything specific? I don't know how it can be so swollen, with no feeling one day and ok a few days later. It makes me hesitant to trust it without knowing what it is. I guess I am going to have to try it slowly and hope for the best? Better news then a ruptured pulley though.

I am proud of myself for not testing the finger yet. Typically, I would have at least tried it the next day to gauge how bad the injury was. After the long hiatus last year, I know I can rest and come back quick and strong, so there is no pressure, but I want to climb so much. My motivation is strong, which is great. I may try easy tonight, maybe focus on some endurance for a week or so.

In the meantime I have been riding a ton, which feels good for a change, some days twice a day 6am and 7pm. It has been great.

Zig has been bolting some stuff in NS which has been getting me interested. Time for a NS trip once I heal.

Injured!!!!

I Injured my index finger last night. I was so happy to get to the gym after a few days off in montreal. Well rested, I felt strong, the weight vest routine has been going great.

I don't know what happened,no crimps, no pain no idea. I dropped off the wall went to get a drink came back and couldn't feel my finger. In minutes it doubled in size around the base and stayed numb. No soreness though, none at all, not like a pulley injury.

I left, iced, ate Advil and went riding.

Today it is still a bit swollen, but the feeling is back and no major soreness, I have no idea what it is, but its not good. Not the ligament, seemingly not the tendon or pulley. I am wondering if I grabbed a hold so hard it squished the tendon onto the nerve or something? Can that happen?

I thought I had had all the finger tweaks one could get, but nope. I should stay of it, but if it was just something settling into place or has been crushed, climbing might be fine? I don't know. I have had wrist problems for weeks, where it felt out of joint and hurt, then one day a huge pain and things felt better within a day, like something was tight, unaligned and out of place. I had a funny pain in the finger for months and thought nothing of it. Its now gone, but swollen and a bit tingly.

I am going to ride like a fiend for a few days, before trying to go back at it. There is no worse climbing time, then the injury comeback, not knowing how hard to push or when, it destroys confidence. I still hate pockets after my young days and pulley injuries. Probably irrational, now that I am stronger?

Reunion

Well I had a wicked time at the reunion, it is so great to get together for a happy reason not a funeral. I find the older I get the busier family life gets the less able we are to make time to all get together in one place. But get together we did and had an awesome time, kids went boating and swimming we ate, drank listened to the band and had a blast.

We also managed to start a new tradition, Tour de Bowles inaugural 2009. Modeled after the Tour de France (ahem...less hardcore) we headed out for a group bike ride, off road, with road bikes and ended at the pub in the rain. I have not had that much fun on my bike in years.

Time for some training as soon as I get back to make up for all this fun.

Magog Quebec

I am n Magog Quebec for a family reunion which I am physced about. I think there are over 70 relatives coming. It is nice to all get together for a good reason rather than a funeral. I find only for weddings and funerals most people will go out of there way to attend and since most of the weddings are over for my generations all to often gatherings are not happy times. This time however, it is for happy times!

I just got back from the party which was great. My family knows how to have fun and most of the old guys are still up and I am off to bed! They outlasted me again. Tomorrow morning I will get them when we all go cycling.

Magog is an awesome town with tons to do in all seasons. I am hoping to get up to the Mont Orford climbing area to check it out while I am here, it looks great in the guide book and it has been years since I was up there, before I was a climber. I just checked out the online guide and there are quite a few difficult routes up there and quite concentrated too. I think it warrants a fall trip up here this year.

So much to do so little time.

Greenlaw NB - Top Gun

Despite the forecast yesterday, we headed down to Greenlaw in beautiful St. Andrews NB. Greenlaw is a scrappy sport crag with routes up to about 50ft high. There are some quality lines down there but mostly easier and a bit dirty, all part of the charm. The place is hard to beat for concentration around here though.

My interest was in an unclimbed project. Adam Morgan added the bolts to one of the steeper sections of the wall, but had left it unclimbed thus far and gave me the go ahead to get on it. I was disappointed to show up and of all the routes it was running with water. I had resigned myself to climb other things for the day, but just before we left I decided to go up and try and check out the moves. I lead it anyway, partly climbing a tree to avoid the wetness, and ticked up the key holds and tried to sop up some of the water. Once I tried the moves I realized that although it was soaked the key holds were incut just enough; I thought it might go as is.

I dried it best I could and tried the moves to be sure as one of the clips was nearly impossible to make. I decided to give it one go before leaving and sent it on the first redpoint try. It is a good route, quite unique climbing, but the top is really dirty and needs cleaning which I will try to do next time I am down. I think Adam had called it TOP GUN. Thanks to Adam for the effort it is a nice addition to the crag. I think it is a bit easier then Grand Theft Project (12b) next to it but based on others thoughts I think maybe they are a bit sandbagged? Who knows?

Ug, the volumes are ready for transport to NB, it was an all day and night affair but they are mostly done, just some QA to go. Now we just need to find a home for them. Takers?

It has been a pleasure working in Dover the last few days, God I love the place. The view inspires me everytime I poke my head out of the shop!


At least today we actually got in some climbing. We did a bunch of great problems in Polly's Cove and LOC. There is one tht stood out and captured us, the Foundation Project. It is a really nice line on a 10 degree wall. Check it out below.


I was able to do a standing variation, V7, quite quickly it is a great problem by itself, but the real business is a diagonal sit-start, which is obviously the choice line. We worked it a while and made progress but no link, not even close, it is burly hard. In the end all we could do was the stand and Zig did add a new variant to the project around V8. But we have to go back and send the real deal.

Tomorrow morning 5:30am me, Ellen and Riley are heading back to NB.

Halifax Raining

I am in Halifax for the weekend to climb with Zig and finish off a run of Bolo Volumes Zig has almost completed. The plan is for me to drive a batch up through Quebec and Ontario at the end of the month to sell as I go. I hope we have enough of them done....and some gyms are interested!

The plan was to mix some climbing between rounds of work but once again the weather has gone to hell. So we spent the whole day working and chillin in the rain at Norms shop, the launching point for all Dover Island trips, taunting really. Even in the rain the place captures you. It almost feels like a privilege to listen to the rain hit the tin roof tucker away on the dry porch, sanding away waiting for the rock to dry and the work to be done. Photos cannot do the place justice. This is a pic of BOLO production prototype shop in Dover Island, NS.

Some of the new goods.

Tomorrow Zig has got me physced to try the foundation project between work if the weather Gods decide we deserve it.

A legend is gone

I have never been one to have a hero. People are fallible and the most gifted is equally flawed in some other way, but certain people shape your views and life in their own way, even if only by myth. You cannot place to much faith in a legend, but it has it own way of inspiring your ideals which you spend your life chasing.

If you shoot for the stars and come up short, hopefully you will land on the moon. John Bachars exploits have captured me since I began climbing and set about the style and ethics I have aspired to from my start. He upheld what I believed and believe in. Even if I can never achieve it, he set my bar. Thanks for daring to do what you did, thanks for being a legend.

Bachar 1957-2009


Photo Supertopo.com Karl Baba

Paper Article

Here is an article the telegraph journal did July 4/09.

Article 1
Article 2

Bail

Does it mean you are losing your drive and getting old if you pass up a weekend trip to stay home and pack for a move? Does it matter that it has been and continues to rain non-stop. So am I crazy or has the common sense gene just began to kick in?

Up and Comer

Great day out guiding. The funny thing is limited time makes you appreciate any time out you get, even if it is in the rain, humidity and bugs...and you don't climb at all.

It was pretty cool, I ran into a couple of dudes I respect, the father and son Adamson team. Its hard not to like these guys, 2 generations still getting it done, aiding in the rain, physced, telling me about their upcoming trip to the Valley and Sierras. I gotta say I am a bit jealous.

For the record the old Adamson showed up young Adamson in the aid department...but it was his route, along with most of the classics in Welsford!? Seriously though, PJ is a guy to watch, he is ultra motivated and improving everyday. As soon as he gets up here to UNB this fall and training with me, he will be a mutant. IT IS COMING, the next generation is on my heels! PJ you ain't there yet though!!! I am wiley, smart and am willing to Cheat.

Little bit of fishing tommorow and some training, can't let the kids get ahead.

The Rush

Ever feel like life is moving along to quickly? As you take more on, one task seems to run into another, everything seems rushed and you focus on getting each done in order and lose focus on the process. It is mental weakness I have noticed lately. I never have enough time for anything I do, especially training.

When I get to the gym, I am aware I need/want more time than I have and rather than focus on quality of what time I do have, I end up rushing through each routine trying to get my whole list done. I should focus more on the moment. This is my goal this week.

Great news, in the last week we have reset the gym with a new batch of Friction holds, big up to Luigi, the new urethane is awesome. It is so nice to have a new set of problems to work on. It has taken a lot, of the little time I have, to rest the routes but I think it will be worth it to have some fresh motivation.

I find it is hard lately to set real long term projects in the gym. Usually I underestimate myself and end up setting the routes way to easy. It is difficult to set something hard and to your weakness. It helps to have someone else set hard routes too. With Ben in Europe its a lonely game lately. I think tonight though I finally have at least one route which is skin and joint friendly enough to work for a long while. I could not do one move on it tonight, I was super happy. I think it will take a few weeks at least! Time will tell.

This weekend I will be teaching some outdoor climbing courses and hopefully getting on ODIN finally!