Saturday, December 6, 2008


Another 14hr day, so long with 2 events the second day was difficult due to the 2 hr warm up compete cool down and doing it twice after the second day on.

Canadians did well, I am impressed despite the lack of lead and speed experience how well we are doing, most of us are extremely experienced boulder comp climbers, but have never done lead comps or speed due to the lack of them.

Mens lead was far more difficult then yesterday, numerous climbers fell off the first move before even getting to clip which is frustrating after waiting in iso for hours, it was a difficult mantel move to start. Sean M is the only one to top, an American, Zeb E was second I was third, tied with a couple others and the other 2 Canadians, Brock T and Benoit D, did make finals 7th and 8th? We have 4 men out of 8 in finals!

The women did well also, I did not get to see final results, but I believe we have 2-3 women Melissa L and Erin F and Melanie? are in lead finals. Unfortunately, one of the lead women missed ISO and was disqualified!

Speed was interesting we waited 7 hrs to get to try it, a difficult experience for me. I have never ever tried to race up a indoor wall, all training has always been about slow and controlled. So to aiming for 6 second and basically campusing up the wall seemed nuts. Most people who made lead finals did not do speed, but I really wanted to try. It was fun and zero pressure everyone laughs and has fun, not the stress of lead and boulder comps. I didn't stick around to see the final results, but I know 3 of 4 finals spots went to Canadians but only 5 Open guys manned up to compete hahaha. I think Dan qualified first, I may be second or third, Benoit 3 or 4th and an American qualified as well. Sean was disqualified for missing hitting the buzzer in his first route which was to bad.

We have some women in speed finals as well, I know Holly and Melissa made it but I am not sure who else.

We will see what tomorrow brings.

Here is a picture of the speed wall.

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