Wednesday, November 25, 2009

The Vision - Canmore

Climbers all know Canmore. The place is basically ideally located for climbing. while I was out west I stopped by a friends gym - The Vision. I had never been there and really wanted to check it out.

The Vision is a small local wall with some really different angles packed into a tight space. I loved it, you could definitely get strong in there. I didn't have time to climb so I am not sure about the setting although it looked good but the atmosphere, colors lighting and wall were quite unique and looked really fun. Check it out if you are ever there.

The Vision in Canmore

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Tour de Bloc Edmonton

CCC Finals mens 2 in black

This far after the comp I find it hard to motivate myself to write anything about it, but since people keep asking me how it went, I figure I will throw up a post and a few pics.

I unexpectedly finished the work I had in Edmonton early, so I asked Ellen ship me my shoes overnight courier for $90 and drove to Calgary for a Tour de Bloc comp at the calgary climbing center - Chinook. I had promised myself no comps until January, as I wanted to rest the fall to have no injuries for the winter and summer comp season. I really want to have some juice left for summer this year. I have found other years when I do 10 or 12 comps in the fall and winter by summer I am burnt out. This year I want to focus on summer comps in Europe if possible.

Anyway, not really being ready to compete and being out there for work not climbing, meant I had very few expectations, which I think leads to no anticipation, therefore climbing only in the moment. For me this is when I climb the best.

In qualifiers I climbed well and was sitting second without really pulling too hard. Sometimes I find I try harder then necessary in qualifiers and wreck myself for finals. This day I was happy with myself, that at least I climbed smart.

I felt great going out for finals, but it did not go my way this time. Problem one I flashed, but problem two I barley got off the ground. I rarely make full on beta mistakes, but I sure did on #2. I read it wrong and got nowhere at all. Problem three I fell off the final hold second and third try and problem four I made it part way. I ended up 4th. Normally I would be not happy with this at all, but this time the field was very strong, I think the comp had 150 people. Given my lack of climbing prep from traveling so much for work, I am quite happy with the result. I think I can be in good shape for spring if I can stay uninjured. Heres hoping.

Overall I think the Calgary Climbing Center is very impressive, the walls are good, setting great and people awesome. They put on a impressive comp. I gotta say though they need to come to the Maritimes to see how to throw an after party!

Lake Louise early winter conditions

On route to Canmore

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

The Committed

I finally ran into someone more committed to climbing than I could imagine. He had a carabeener tattooed on his throat. That is commitment. I was impressed!

Monday, November 9, 2009


Edmonton certainly is not my favorite place. It seems I have been away and off climbing for forever. Despite the lack of any sleep due to a course I have been on and traveling here, I forced a gym session tonight, which was fun. Unfortunatly though my skin completely sluffed off. The break must have weakened it badly. I hate it when this happens, it takes so long not be be wet again.

Vertically Inclined is a cool gym, more route focused than bouldering, but its nice to climb routes I did not set for once. They were all pretty easy which was disappointing. I sent the hardest comp route there in about 10 minutes. I am going to head to the other gym here in Edmonton on U of A campus, I hear that is where the tough stuff is. I am looking forward to it I have not been there since Nationals a few years ago. Hopefully I can hook up with some of the guys from around here to show me around.

I just heard there is a tour be bloc in Calgary this weekend. I might actually be able to go. I will have to see how the week goes work wise, its looking hectic. I am not sure even if I can go if I will. I was really looking forward to checking out the Rockies rather tan another indoor gym. We will see I guess, if the weather looks bad I might as well go and get the motivation back for comps!