Friday, October 30, 2009

Land of Confusion

John On his new nemisis When Stars Attack photo Ben Blakney

The weather just looked too good yesterday, so I took a work break and headed to NS for the day with Shawn and Liam. We did the LOC tour, with Ben B leading us, hitting four areas throughout the day. It was awesome to be back in Halifax bouldering, it has been a while. Thankfully we had Ben, as I am sure we would have been swallowed by the swamp without him.

My only goal was to force myself to get on some problems I had not done, had not been on before, or did not want to do. Work my weaknesses was my mandate. No laps on my favorites.

Everyone who went out sent tons, we climbed till after dark and got home at 2am, a good day worth and the drive for sure.

At Nouveau Rich I did everything there worthwhile, except one or two. I was very happy, as I had not done many, if any, in that area before. I flashed everything except Dynamitus. This route had my number, high steps and a necessary hip shift. I am horrible at that and was happy to get it. It probably took me 20+ tries over an hour and much lost skin.

Next we visited Corn and Bung. There was not much there I wanted to do, except an old nemesis, I never would put the time into, Can't Trust Skinny people. I am not sure what this route is graded, but whatever it is, I am sure it is a sandbag. I always looked at it and have tried if half heatedly in the past, but today I convinced myself I would send it and did first try. I was surprised, must have been good friction? I did a classics Captain Hook and Joe Boxer as well, which have to be two of the best routes in NS.

Next we were off to Scoop, what an awesome block, I did a couple laps on the classic Bop Gun, which was new for me and gave a couple tries to When Stars Attack, with no luck. I decided to save my skin for Kleos.

Kleos I had never been to, but had heard a lot about. It was late in the day but I wanted to try it badly and after about an hour sent it. It kind of surprised me, but I was super happy, it is a high quality line on good rock,

We headed for jack's arete next and did it in the dark, another great line. Liam gets the props here, he worked it until well after, dark blood gushing, with no complaints, so close, next time for sure.

Monday, October 19, 2009


I took a quick day trip to Kamouraska, QC this weekend, for a day. It was cold in the morning, but we climbed a bunch of moderates and had a blast being outside.
An old pic of a few 5.11 classics at Kamou

On another note the bolting debate continues on the Climb Eastern Canada forum. Everyone gets quite bent out of shape about this topic. The internet is a great enabler, but it makes it hard to discuss certain topics unemotionally, as people are not selective about how they say things and often say things which in person they would not say and if they did say, would get a punch in the mouth for. This thread has remained quite civilized though.

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

My Bday

I feel old today, past my prime, low motivation and fat hahahhahahaha. I hope I still can get it done this season, its gonna be tougher. I need something new to strive for.

It seems my most likely form of exercise lately is going to be chopping bolts. Still not sure where the debate will go but I know the outcome;)

At least I still have some fight left hahahahahha

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Bolting cracks

I am trying to keep my cool, rationalize and have tolerance of differing views, but it just does not make sense to me. Some days I think as I get older I mello out a bit, but man oh man I still have some strong feelings about some things. Bolting cracks is one of them.

Our local cliff has always had strong ethics, not as hardcore as North Conway, but along the same lines. You don't bolt cracks, you don't bolt within reach of other routes and bolts are only used where trad gear is not available. This has long since been decided in our area.

Every once in a while someone challenges this. Problem is the older crew diminishes new climbers with no historical perspective arrive and all hell breaks loose, verbal diarrhea flies and feelings get hurt. Its easier not to confront them at all, but dammit someone needs to.

A new route called DDT went up, bolts right beside a 5 star existing 5.6 crack climb. The new climbers like bolts and think its ok, well it's not, precedent and local ethics dictate something different and tolerance be damned , respect is in order. I hope the equiper steps up and decides to remove them himself.

I just don't get it?

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

New Day

I am at the gym, today dawns a new day. I am now officially back at it. I need to say it out loud to make it happen. Motivation has been elsewhere and is always hard to regain momentum. I am ready.

Saturday, October 3, 2009

cool wall

This boggles my mind, we are so behind here in canada?

check it out