I am trying to keep my cool, rationalize and have tolerance of differing views, but it just does not make sense to me. Some days I think as I get older I mello out a bit, but man oh man I still have some strong feelings about some things. Bolting cracks is one of them.
Our local cliff has always had strong ethics, not as hardcore as North Conway, but along the same lines. You don't bolt cracks, you don't bolt within reach of other routes and bolts are only used where trad gear is not available. This has long since been decided in our area.
Every once in a while someone challenges this. Problem is the older crew diminishes new climbers with no historical perspective arrive and all hell breaks loose, verbal diarrhea flies and feelings get hurt. Its easier not to confront them at all, but dammit someone needs to.
A new route called DDT went up, bolts right beside a 5 star existing 5.6 crack climb. The new climbers like bolts and think its ok, well it's not, precedent and local ethics dictate something different and tolerance be damned , respect is in order. I hope the equiper steps up and decides to remove them himself.
I just don't get it?
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6 comments:
chop chop time
it's debatable that they're RIGHT next to the crack.
come climb it zig and see what you think... it's definitely up for debate. i definitely need to climb it again with this in mind.
but in any case, i think there are other bolts in welsford that are FAR worse offenders than the ones on DDT.
what wall is this on?
above astroboy on, right of rythm stick on the right of the totem
honestly i don't see how you can get so upset about this route when there have been other, more offending bolts placed at cochrane lane.
I really can think of any other routes more inappropriatly bolts for so many botls, odd one here or there. Not every bolt on the route like this
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