Saturday, February 28, 2009


I hadn't had the heart to post in the last while. I have a bad hand injury I have been trying to pretend is not there.

Right after the Quebec comp I drove back to Toronto picked Dad up and headed back for Montreal. We got caught in a snowstorm like I have never seen. It took us 12 hours for the 5 hr drive, I was exhausted. The next morning I got up and headed to quebec city dropped Dad off and headed straight for Nova Scotia to try and get there in time for the next Tour de Bloc at the Rock Court. By 10pm I had Picked up Ellen and Holly and made it to the hotel.

I was completely wasted but to be honest thought the comp would be quite easy. Quebec city had gone very well with a super strong field despite my 2 months off and I figured a local comp at a gym I new well would be cake. I had confidence and motivation.

During qualifiers I chatted with the folks I had not seen in months due to my departure and did not warm up to well. I was not worried about making finals and flashed most stuff I tried while warming up. However before I did my 6 problems I jumped on a mid level advanced route probally V6 or so and my foot slipped on a small crimp and boom...I tore something when I caught myself.

I new I was cold and not warmed up, a amature mistake, stupid and now a month later I am still paying for it. Completely disheartening. Two months off, all healed physced, climbing great back on for a week and a bit and injured again cause I am dumb.

Been here before and I know what to do but the question is always can the season be salvaged comp wise. You just need a certain amount of time to heal and you never really know hoe long that will be physically then confidence wise, confidence that the hand can really take the rigors of competing.

It is healing now despite the fact that I was told I may have ripped the tendon off the attachment. The problem is with my pinky mostly, some with the ring finger and a bit with my middle. As long as I buddy tape and the fingers don't separate climbing static is bearable but I feel so strong right now limiting myself is hard...yet absolutely necessary. The chance of any strength gains are gone for the season, it is now about improving other things like technique and endurance. I am just hoping to get back enough hand strength to compete and make the team for next year without further injury.

Its too bad I don't have a lead and speed climbing wall to train on, it would provide a good change and is far easier on the tendons. I learned this year I really like rope comps, there just inn't enough to really bother specializing, they are fun only for me but if I want to not get my ass kicked in China I need to practice, at least a couple times before I go :) hahhhhahah.

I hate injuries.

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Tour de Bloc Roc Gym 2009

Wow, it has been too long, between moving home and getting back to work things have been crazy!

While I was still in TO I decided last minute to drive to Quebec city for the 2009 Tour de Bloc at Roc Gym. I had no expectations since I had not climbed for a long time but I needed to try and get a few points or making the national team would be impossible for me, there just are not many comps left.

My strategy was to climb as little as possible in qualifiers and flash what I can max 3 tries in qualifiers and finals if I made it.

The problems were really great quality this year, Bob did a great job and you can tell he is turning the gym around there, in the past it has been plagued with issues during the comp but this year it was smooth.

Qualifiers went good I qualified 2nd behind Seb and fell only a few times which surprised me. What was of no surprise was the amount of power endurance I had lost. My power was good but only for one shot ahahhah.

Finals Went great I limited my attempts as planned and pulled out the win, sending 2 of 4 problems and coming close on the other 2.

Here is a pic of the sweet 45 degree at roc gym with the horrid paint job.