Friday, October 30, 2009

Land of Confusion


John On his new nemisis When Stars Attack photo Ben Blakney

The weather just looked too good yesterday, so I took a work break and headed to NS for the day with Shawn and Liam. We did the LOC tour, with Ben B leading us, hitting four areas throughout the day. It was awesome to be back in Halifax bouldering, it has been a while. Thankfully we had Ben, as I am sure we would have been swallowed by the swamp without him.

My only goal was to force myself to get on some problems I had not done, had not been on before, or did not want to do. Work my weaknesses was my mandate. No laps on my favorites.

Everyone who went out sent tons, we climbed till after dark and got home at 2am, a good day worth and the drive for sure.

At Nouveau Rich I did everything there worthwhile, except one or two. I was very happy, as I had not done many, if any, in that area before. I flashed everything except Dynamitus. This route had my number, high steps and a necessary hip shift. I am horrible at that and was happy to get it. It probably took me 20+ tries over an hour and much lost skin.

Next we visited Corn and Bung. There was not much there I wanted to do, except an old nemesis, I never would put the time into, Can't Trust Skinny people. I am not sure what this route is graded, but whatever it is, I am sure it is a sandbag. I always looked at it and have tried if half heatedly in the past, but today I convinced myself I would send it and did first try. I was surprised, must have been good friction? I did a classics Captain Hook and Joe Boxer as well, which have to be two of the best routes in NS.

Next we were off to Scoop, what an awesome block, I did a couple laps on the classic Bop Gun, which was new for me and gave a couple tries to When Stars Attack, with no luck. I decided to save my skin for Kleos.

Kleos I had never been to, but had heard a lot about. It was late in the day but I wanted to try it badly and after about an hour sent it. It kind of surprised me, but I was super happy, it is a high quality line on good rock,

We headed for jack's arete next and did it in the dark, another great line. Liam gets the props here, he worked it until well after, dark blood gushing, with no complaints, so close, next time for sure.

3 comments:

Ben Blakney & Krissy Lunney said...

Hey, it's When Stars Attack" not "Yankee Spirits"...

Liam said...

I think I was complaining, you guys just weren't listening! :)

It was a great day.

Zig said...

looking at photo you had wrong foot beta...