Saturday, August 29, 2009

Sanatorium Quebec

Last weekend I went out to a new crag in quebec, dubbed the Sanatorium, with a couple friends who are developing it. I have not seen much like it before, overhanging granite with actual holds, pinches, pockets, underclings, cracks, edges, all kinds of holds. At this point there are about 5 lines up, 2 are still projects. On the main face the 3 lines are 13c,d,d quite hard. We warmed up trying a 13d! There is not much to warm up on yet, thankfully the holds are friendly.

It felt good to try out my finger after a few weeks rest, it seemed pretty good, I only gave 3 redpoints, not to push it to hard. It was sore after, but no damage was done and I had a ton of fun. I didn't do the route, but figured out all the moves by my third try. I should be able to do it next time up.

I was surprised that my endurance felt great, my power was down, but it did not matter for these routes. The advantage of bouldering so much is the moves, on even hard routes, feel comparatively easy usually for me, its just a matter of figuring out the sequences.

I know one of my weaknesses is body positioning. These routes were balancy and subtle, I could not power through them like in the gym or more gymnastic outdoor areas. Granite it like that I find. It was fun to force myself to get in balance not just pull for a change.

Here is a pic of Jeff B on his project, my photography does not do it justice.

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