Cross Training

I have always thought being a well rounded climber was important, consequently I have always climbed in every discipline I have access to. Granted I have been spending more time in the gym training for comps in the last few years than in the past, but I still love all different aspects in climbing.

I think it is really important for new climbers to the sport to be well rounded, especially those finding the sport later in life. There is no quicker way to plateau, lose motivation and ultimately get hurt, then to focus to heavily on any one facet of the sport.

That brings me to training. I believe the quickest way for a intermediate climber to improve is to climb a lot of different terrain, for differing duration, angles etc. This variance alone will lead to improvement. But anyone who improves, or wants to improve beyond their personal intermediate level, eventually realizes and usually in hindsight, that specific training is required.

I have found that at more advanced levels of training, the more I specialize my training needs to be to achieve the greatest gains. However, this transition period is normally a period of high injury risk. Injury eventually visits us all, but injury minimization is key to longevity in this sport, at the high end.

So where is the balance?

In the past few years I have found that cycling loading, duration and difficulty has brought me the largest gains, yet I have almost solely focused on bouldering. So, maybe it is possible to isolate a targeted specialty and simply vary approach. I am sure if I had varied my approach even more, I would not still be dealing with the injury which I have had for the last 8 months. Due to experience though, I have been able to manage the issue, while still climbing at a high level, but it is always in your head once when you are not at full capacity.

So, maybe my semi-forced hiatus lately will be a good thing overall. I have not climbed in the last week and a bit, since the NACC. However, last night I did start cross training. In all honesty I started not because I really think it is what I should do, but given the situation I have no other choice.

So, last night I suffered doing all I could, dips, pull downs, curls, triceps, abs ..... today I am sore!! I guess I am not used to anything but climbing, I guess. Do you think it will improve my climbing? I am betting it won't help at all, but maybe I won't lose anything either, mostly I think it preserves my sanity and makes me feel like I am doing all I can.

To everyone out there with limited access to their desires, whatever that might be, stay focused and motivated in the absence; just maybe it will be the best thing for you.

This is a place I love and want to go back to, this is my motivation, Zillertal, Austria!