Monday, July 27, 2009

Greenlaw NB - Top Gun

Despite the forecast yesterday, we headed down to Greenlaw in beautiful St. Andrews NB. Greenlaw is a scrappy sport crag with routes up to about 50ft high. There are some quality lines down there but mostly easier and a bit dirty, all part of the charm. The place is hard to beat for concentration around here though.

My interest was in an unclimbed project. Adam Morgan added the bolts to one of the steeper sections of the wall, but had left it unclimbed thus far and gave me the go ahead to get on it. I was disappointed to show up and of all the routes it was running with water. I had resigned myself to climb other things for the day, but just before we left I decided to go up and try and check out the moves. I lead it anyway, partly climbing a tree to avoid the wetness, and ticked up the key holds and tried to sop up some of the water. Once I tried the moves I realized that although it was soaked the key holds were incut just enough; I thought it might go as is.

I dried it best I could and tried the moves to be sure as one of the clips was nearly impossible to make. I decided to give it one go before leaving and sent it on the first redpoint try. It is a good route, quite unique climbing, but the top is really dirty and needs cleaning which I will try to do next time I am down. I think Adam had called it TOP GUN. Thanks to Adam for the effort it is a nice addition to the crag. I think it is a bit easier then Grand Theft Project (12b) next to it but based on others thoughts I think maybe they are a bit sandbagged? Who knows?

1 comment:

neadamthal said...

You're a beast John lol. I totally thought it was harder than that but I trended out to the arete. You obviously can't FORCE a route but that path seemed the most aesthetic at the time.

GOOD WORK!