Monday, April 19, 2010

Bolt Chopping

Funny, I did not think anyone would actually do it but, someone actually chopped a recently retro bolted route at our local crag.

There are always justifications on both sides for adding extra non-original bolts. Both sides usually have seemingly good arguments. Typically the bolter hides behind safety issues and the chopper hides behind history.

I personally have a strong belief, but every route and situation has grey areas to make it interesting.

For me I think rebolting routes when the time comes is fine. I do not think adding extra bolts (retrobolting) for any reason without the first ascentionists permission is ok. Even with permission I think adding extra bolts takes away an with opportunity for future generations to experience routes as natural as possible. Inherently adding any bolts takes away opportunity for future generations, so it should never be taken lightly. No one is perfect every situation is worth a review but this I think is what to aspire to for me.

In this particular case the first ascentionist had passed away and bolts were added to make the route safer.

They were added on the 5.8 section of a 10d climb.
The route is an area classic and there is gear available where one of the bolts were added.

I think the bolt removal, while unpopular with some was correct, but would anger less people if it was discussed with the retrobolter just out of community spirit.

Here is my question: assuming what is done is done and now the remaining bolt is out of place with respect to the original route what should be done if there are only 2 choices? There are tons of scenarios but if there are only two options what do you think?

1) Chop it and replace a new bolt by the original location
2) Leave the remaining bolt alone (it is not significantly different)

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