Perspective

If you understand PERSPECTIVE, command it and control it, then there is truly nothing you cannot do; since what one believes in heart, becomes reality in the space of your mind. It may not be someone else's perceived reality, but if you can convince yourself, then it becomes truth to you.

Insane people have long demonstrated this as delusion, but used correctly it can become a powerful tool. I am not talking about bending reality necessarily, but taking a moment to view everyday life and what is going on around you, in a way you WANT it to be. In bad times it takes more effort then in good, however, in most situations there is hope, motivation, a lesson and some joy.

For myself it provides comfort to pause and take a moment to approach my thoughts from the opposite viewpoint, both positive and negative, the ultimate self-critical devil's advocate. Most decisions become clear with this approach. If you can involve a like minded partner the method can become even more powerful.

For an anal perfectionist looking for truth, constantly flipping 180 degrees in your mind changes perspective quickly.

Holly in Finals

I went to the Tour de Bloc Delire comp in Quebec last week. I have said it before and I will say it again, that gym is awesome! The people are great and they care a lot. Their team of organizers is top notch.

The attendance was huge I think they had about 50 juniors alone, probably over 150 total. Good for them.

The comp ran very smooth, but they did not use tape for qualifiers, they used color coded holds. I think this is a huge mistake. Being color blind and knowing 10% of the male population is also, it makes it nearly impossible to compete. I have to memorize the patterns before trying any problem with similar color holds. I watched a lot of people struggle even when they were not color blind. Once chalk gets on the top of a hold and you get above it, any similar color hold looks the same. I just don't get it, it has no benefit and has no place in comps. Its much cleaner for the gym for everyday use, but not comps.

I think they struggled a bit setting for a zone format finals, but overall the comp was really good, they do an awesome job a Delire.

For myself I ended up third. I was really unhappy with my finals performance. Problem 2 killed me. I could not get anywhere, my heel just would not stick. I new if I could get the first heel, I would do the problem, but just couldn't get it.

I had a great time and am physced to go to Delire for regionals.

The Vision - Canmore

Climbers all know Canmore. The place is basically ideally located for climbing. while I was out west I stopped by a friends gym - The Vision. I had never been there and really wanted to check it out.

The Vision is a small local wall with some really different angles packed into a tight space. I loved it, you could definitely get strong in there. I didn't have time to climb so I am not sure about the setting although it looked good but the atmosphere, colors lighting and wall were quite unique and looked really fun. Check it out if you are ever there.


The Vision in Canmore

Tour de Bloc Edmonton

CCC Finals mens 2 in black

This far after the comp I find it hard to motivate myself to write anything about it, but since people keep asking me how it went, I figure I will throw up a post and a few pics.

I unexpectedly finished the work I had in Edmonton early, so I asked Ellen ship me my shoes overnight courier for $90 and drove to Calgary for a Tour de Bloc comp at the calgary climbing center - Chinook. I had promised myself no comps until January, as I wanted to rest the fall to have no injuries for the winter and summer comp season. I really want to have some juice left for summer this year. I have found other years when I do 10 or 12 comps in the fall and winter by summer I am burnt out. This year I want to focus on summer comps in Europe if possible.

Anyway, not really being ready to compete and being out there for work not climbing, meant I had very few expectations, which I think leads to no anticipation, therefore climbing only in the moment. For me this is when I climb the best.

In qualifiers I climbed well and was sitting second without really pulling too hard. Sometimes I find I try harder then necessary in qualifiers and wreck myself for finals. This day I was happy with myself, that at least I climbed smart.

I felt great going out for finals, but it did not go my way this time. Problem one I flashed, but problem two I barley got off the ground. I rarely make full on beta mistakes, but I sure did on #2. I read it wrong and got nowhere at all. Problem three I fell off the final hold second and third try and problem four I made it part way. I ended up 4th. Normally I would be not happy with this at all, but this time the field was very strong, I think the comp had 150 people. Given my lack of climbing prep from traveling so much for work, I am quite happy with the result. I think I can be in good shape for spring if I can stay uninjured. Heres hoping.

Overall I think the Calgary Climbing Center is very impressive, the walls are good, setting great and people awesome. They put on a impressive comp. I gotta say though they need to come to the Maritimes to see how to throw an after party!


Lake Louise early winter conditions


On route to Canmore

The Committed

I finally ran into someone more committed to climbing than I could imagine. He had a carabeener tattooed on his throat. That is commitment. I was impressed!

Edmonton......again

Edmonton certainly is not my favorite place. It seems I have been away and off climbing for forever. Despite the lack of any sleep due to a course I have been on and traveling here, I forced a gym session tonight, which was fun. Unfortunatly though my skin completely sluffed off. The break must have weakened it badly. I hate it when this happens, it takes so long not be be wet again.

Vertically Inclined is a cool gym, more route focused than bouldering, but its nice to climb routes I did not set for once. They were all pretty easy which was disappointing. I sent the hardest comp route there in about 10 minutes. I am going to head to the other gym here in Edmonton on U of A campus, I hear that is where the tough stuff is. I am looking forward to it I have not been there since Nationals a few years ago. Hopefully I can hook up with some of the guys from around here to show me around.

I just heard there is a tour be bloc in Calgary this weekend. I might actually be able to go. I will have to see how the week goes work wise, its looking hectic. I am not sure even if I can go if I will. I was really looking forward to checking out the Rockies rather tan another indoor gym. We will see I guess, if the weather looks bad I might as well go and get the motivation back for comps!

Land of Confusion

John On his new nemisis When Stars Attack photo Ben Blakney

The weather just looked too good yesterday, so I took a work break and headed to NS for the day with Shawn and Liam. We did the LOC tour, with Ben B leading us, hitting four areas throughout the day. It was awesome to be back in Halifax bouldering, it has been a while. Thankfully we had Ben, as I am sure we would have been swallowed by the swamp without him.

My only goal was to force myself to get on some problems I had not done, had not been on before, or did not want to do. Work my weaknesses was my mandate. No laps on my favorites.

Everyone who went out sent tons, we climbed till after dark and got home at 2am, a good day worth and the drive for sure.

At Nouveau Rich I did everything there worthwhile, except one or two. I was very happy, as I had not done many, if any, in that area before. I flashed everything except Dynamitus. This route had my number, high steps and a necessary hip shift. I am horrible at that and was happy to get it. It probably took me 20+ tries over an hour and much lost skin.

Next we visited Corn and Bung. There was not much there I wanted to do, except an old nemesis, I never would put the time into, Can't Trust Skinny people. I am not sure what this route is graded, but whatever it is, I am sure it is a sandbag. I always looked at it and have tried if half heatedly in the past, but today I convinced myself I would send it and did first try. I was surprised, must have been good friction? I did a classics Captain Hook and Joe Boxer as well, which have to be two of the best routes in NS.

Next we were off to Scoop, what an awesome block, I did a couple laps on the classic Bop Gun, which was new for me and gave a couple tries to When Stars Attack, with no luck. I decided to save my skin for Kleos.

Kleos I had never been to, but had heard a lot about. It was late in the day but I wanted to try it badly and after about an hour sent it. It kind of surprised me, but I was super happy, it is a high quality line on good rock,

We headed for jack's arete next and did it in the dark, another great line. Liam gets the props here, he worked it until well after, dark blood gushing, with no complaints, so close, next time for sure.

Kamou

I took a quick day trip to Kamouraska, QC this weekend, for a day. It was cold in the morning, but we climbed a bunch of moderates and had a blast being outside.
An old pic of a few 5.11 classics at Kamou

On another note the bolting debate continues on the Climb Eastern Canada forum. Everyone gets quite bent out of shape about this topic. The internet is a great enabler, but it makes it hard to discuss certain topics unemotionally, as people are not selective about how they say things and often say things which in person they would not say and if they did say, would get a punch in the mouth for. This thread has remained quite civilized though.

My Bday

I feel old today, past my prime, low motivation and fat hahahhahahaha. I hope I still can get it done this season, its gonna be tougher. I need something new to strive for.

It seems my most likely form of exercise lately is going to be chopping bolts. Still not sure where the debate will go but I know the outcome;)

At least I still have some fight left hahahahahha

Bolting cracks

I am trying to keep my cool, rationalize and have tolerance of differing views, but it just does not make sense to me. Some days I think as I get older I mello out a bit, but man oh man I still have some strong feelings about some things. Bolting cracks is one of them.

Our local cliff has always had strong ethics, not as hardcore as North Conway, but along the same lines. You don't bolt cracks, you don't bolt within reach of other routes and bolts are only used where trad gear is not available. This has long since been decided in our area.

Every once in a while someone challenges this. Problem is the older crew diminishes new climbers with no historical perspective arrive and all hell breaks loose, verbal diarrhea flies and feelings get hurt. Its easier not to confront them at all, but dammit someone needs to.

A new route called DDT went up, bolts right beside a 5 star existing 5.6 crack climb. The new climbers like bolts and think its ok, well it's not, precedent and local ethics dictate something different and tolerance be damned , respect is in order. I hope the equiper steps up and decides to remove them himself.

I just don't get it?

New Day

I am at the gym, today dawns a new day. I am now officially back at it. I need to say it out loud to make it happen. Motivation has been elsewhere and is always hard to regain momentum. I am ready.

cool wall

This boggles my mind, we are so behind here in canada?

check it out

Bar Harbor, ME

I have not climbed outside for a while. You know when your soul aches for something, you just have to eventually give in. Monday I decided I just had to go so Liam and I head down to Maine Monday night with the plan to climb all day and drive home the next night and arrive in time to go to work. We drove 800km climbed until 3 hrs after dark (not on purpose), got home by 2:30am in plenty of time to make work, did about 32 pitches between us and had an awesome time.

It whetted my appetite did nothing to satiated by drive and now I am stuck back at work again. A few more hours and this weekend I will be teaching rock school our annual beginner event for 40 students in Welsford NB. Not exactly climbing fr me but a fun weekend out.

Here in an old pictured of me on Pipe Dreams a neat pin protected 5.12 in Bar Harbor.

Nationals Videos, Montreal 2009

Dr topo has the videos from nationals all done, here are the links:

Mens part 1
Mens part 2

Womens part 1
Womens part 2
Womens part 3

Kids Climbing and Getting Fat

I spent part of the week in PEI pitching a school for a wall installation project. It went well, I suspect it will go forward, but slowly. This will be the first "real" wall in a high school in the Maritimes I think. I need to get administration to see the value in just one, then use the model to propagate them through different districts. One step at a time I guess.

Friday morning I left PEI to NB to go to our ultrasound appointment. Ellen and I are having a boy! I am excited, it feels real now. I want to name him John III and just "three" for short. Ellen is not so keen. Not sure why really. I also suggested Riley, after our dog...I like the dog.

An couple hours after I found out, I was in the air for Edmonton Alberta for work for a week. So many distractions, it is impossible to train and I am eating bad. I am getting fat and have some work to do for comp season, but I am feeling healed and motivated, so I suspect as soon as I return and training resumes it will come back quick.

Sanatorium Quebec

Last weekend I went out to a new crag in quebec, dubbed the Sanatorium, with a couple friends who are developing it. I have not seen much like it before, overhanging granite with actual holds, pinches, pockets, underclings, cracks, edges, all kinds of holds. At this point there are about 5 lines up, 2 are still projects. On the main face the 3 lines are 13c,d,d quite hard. We warmed up trying a 13d! There is not much to warm up on yet, thankfully the holds are friendly.

It felt good to try out my finger after a few weeks rest, it seemed pretty good, I only gave 3 redpoints, not to push it to hard. It was sore after, but no damage was done and I had a ton of fun. I didn't do the route, but figured out all the moves by my third try. I should be able to do it next time up.

I was surprised that my endurance felt great, my power was down, but it did not matter for these routes. The advantage of bouldering so much is the moves, on even hard routes, feel comparatively easy usually for me, its just a matter of figuring out the sequences.

I know one of my weaknesses is body positioning. These routes were balancy and subtle, I could not power through them like in the gym or more gymnastic outdoor areas. Granite it like that I find. It was fun to force myself to get in balance not just pull for a change.

Here is a pic of Jeff B on his project, my photography does not do it justice.

Fingers?

I hesitantly tried the gym tonight to see how my finger was. I did not crimp or really try anything hard but it felt ok. It is unusual that such swelling does not seem to be linked to anything specific? I don't know how it can be so swollen, with no feeling one day and ok a few days later. It makes me hesitant to trust it without knowing what it is. I guess I am going to have to try it slowly and hope for the best? Better news then a ruptured pulley though.

I am proud of myself for not testing the finger yet. Typically, I would have at least tried it the next day to gauge how bad the injury was. After the long hiatus last year, I know I can rest and come back quick and strong, so there is no pressure, but I want to climb so much. My motivation is strong, which is great. I may try easy tonight, maybe focus on some endurance for a week or so.

In the meantime I have been riding a ton, which feels good for a change, some days twice a day 6am and 7pm. It has been great.

Zig has been bolting some stuff in NS which has been getting me interested. Time for a NS trip once I heal.

Injured!!!!

I Injured my index finger last night. I was so happy to get to the gym after a few days off in montreal. Well rested, I felt strong, the weight vest routine has been going great.

I don't know what happened,no crimps, no pain no idea. I dropped off the wall went to get a drink came back and couldn't feel my finger. In minutes it doubled in size around the base and stayed numb. No soreness though, none at all, not like a pulley injury.

I left, iced, ate Advil and went riding.

Today it is still a bit swollen, but the feeling is back and no major soreness, I have no idea what it is, but its not good. Not the ligament, seemingly not the tendon or pulley. I am wondering if I grabbed a hold so hard it squished the tendon onto the nerve or something? Can that happen?

I thought I had had all the finger tweaks one could get, but nope. I should stay of it, but if it was just something settling into place or has been crushed, climbing might be fine? I don't know. I have had wrist problems for weeks, where it felt out of joint and hurt, then one day a huge pain and things felt better within a day, like something was tight, unaligned and out of place. I had a funny pain in the finger for months and thought nothing of it. Its now gone, but swollen and a bit tingly.

I am going to ride like a fiend for a few days, before trying to go back at it. There is no worse climbing time, then the injury comeback, not knowing how hard to push or when, it destroys confidence. I still hate pockets after my young days and pulley injuries. Probably irrational, now that I am stronger?

Reunion

Well I had a wicked time at the reunion, it is so great to get together for a happy reason not a funeral. I find the older I get the busier family life gets the less able we are to make time to all get together in one place. But get together we did and had an awesome time, kids went boating and swimming we ate, drank listened to the band and had a blast.

We also managed to start a new tradition, Tour de Bowles inaugural 2009. Modeled after the Tour de France (ahem...less hardcore) we headed out for a group bike ride, off road, with road bikes and ended at the pub in the rain. I have not had that much fun on my bike in years.

Time for some training as soon as I get back to make up for all this fun.

Magog Quebec

I am n Magog Quebec for a family reunion which I am physced about. I think there are over 70 relatives coming. It is nice to all get together for a good reason rather than a funeral. I find only for weddings and funerals most people will go out of there way to attend and since most of the weddings are over for my generations all to often gatherings are not happy times. This time however, it is for happy times!

I just got back from the party which was great. My family knows how to have fun and most of the old guys are still up and I am off to bed! They outlasted me again. Tomorrow morning I will get them when we all go cycling.

Magog is an awesome town with tons to do in all seasons. I am hoping to get up to the Mont Orford climbing area to check it out while I am here, it looks great in the guide book and it has been years since I was up there, before I was a climber. I just checked out the online guide and there are quite a few difficult routes up there and quite concentrated too. I think it warrants a fall trip up here this year.

So much to do so little time.

Greenlaw NB - Top Gun

Despite the forecast yesterday, we headed down to Greenlaw in beautiful St. Andrews NB. Greenlaw is a scrappy sport crag with routes up to about 50ft high. There are some quality lines down there but mostly easier and a bit dirty, all part of the charm. The place is hard to beat for concentration around here though.

My interest was in an unclimbed project. Adam Morgan added the bolts to one of the steeper sections of the wall, but had left it unclimbed thus far and gave me the go ahead to get on it. I was disappointed to show up and of all the routes it was running with water. I had resigned myself to climb other things for the day, but just before we left I decided to go up and try and check out the moves. I lead it anyway, partly climbing a tree to avoid the wetness, and ticked up the key holds and tried to sop up some of the water. Once I tried the moves I realized that although it was soaked the key holds were incut just enough; I thought it might go as is.

I dried it best I could and tried the moves to be sure as one of the clips was nearly impossible to make. I decided to give it one go before leaving and sent it on the first redpoint try. It is a good route, quite unique climbing, but the top is really dirty and needs cleaning which I will try to do next time I am down. I think Adam had called it TOP GUN. Thanks to Adam for the effort it is a nice addition to the crag. I think it is a bit easier then Grand Theft Project (12b) next to it but based on others thoughts I think maybe they are a bit sandbagged? Who knows?

Ug, the volumes are ready for transport to NB, it was an all day and night affair but they are mostly done, just some QA to go. Now we just need to find a home for them. Takers?

It has been a pleasure working in Dover the last few days, God I love the place. The view inspires me everytime I poke my head out of the shop!


At least today we actually got in some climbing. We did a bunch of great problems in Polly's Cove and LOC. There is one tht stood out and captured us, the Foundation Project. It is a really nice line on a 10 degree wall. Check it out below.


I was able to do a standing variation, V7, quite quickly it is a great problem by itself, but the real business is a diagonal sit-start, which is obviously the choice line. We worked it a while and made progress but no link, not even close, it is burly hard. In the end all we could do was the stand and Zig did add a new variant to the project around V8. But we have to go back and send the real deal.

Tomorrow morning 5:30am me, Ellen and Riley are heading back to NB.

Halifax Raining

I am in Halifax for the weekend to climb with Zig and finish off a run of Bolo Volumes Zig has almost completed. The plan is for me to drive a batch up through Quebec and Ontario at the end of the month to sell as I go. I hope we have enough of them done....and some gyms are interested!

The plan was to mix some climbing between rounds of work but once again the weather has gone to hell. So we spent the whole day working and chillin in the rain at Norms shop, the launching point for all Dover Island trips, taunting really. Even in the rain the place captures you. It almost feels like a privilege to listen to the rain hit the tin roof tucker away on the dry porch, sanding away waiting for the rock to dry and the work to be done. Photos cannot do the place justice. This is a pic of BOLO production prototype shop in Dover Island, NS.

Some of the new goods.

Tomorrow Zig has got me physced to try the foundation project between work if the weather Gods decide we deserve it.

A legend is gone

I have never been one to have a hero. People are fallible and the most gifted is equally flawed in some other way, but certain people shape your views and life in their own way, even if only by myth. You cannot place to much faith in a legend, but it has it own way of inspiring your ideals which you spend your life chasing.

If you shoot for the stars and come up short, hopefully you will land on the moon. John Bachars exploits have captured me since I began climbing and set about the style and ethics I have aspired to from my start. He upheld what I believed and believe in. Even if I can never achieve it, he set my bar. Thanks for daring to do what you did, thanks for being a legend.

Bachar 1957-2009


Photo Supertopo.com Karl Baba

Paper Article

Here is an article the telegraph journal did July 4/09.

Article 1
Article 2

Bail

Does it mean you are losing your drive and getting old if you pass up a weekend trip to stay home and pack for a move? Does it matter that it has been and continues to rain non-stop. So am I crazy or has the common sense gene just began to kick in?

Up and Comer

Great day out guiding. The funny thing is limited time makes you appreciate any time out you get, even if it is in the rain, humidity and bugs...and you don't climb at all.

It was pretty cool, I ran into a couple of dudes I respect, the father and son Adamson team. Its hard not to like these guys, 2 generations still getting it done, aiding in the rain, physced, telling me about their upcoming trip to the Valley and Sierras. I gotta say I am a bit jealous.

For the record the old Adamson showed up young Adamson in the aid department...but it was his route, along with most of the classics in Welsford!? Seriously though, PJ is a guy to watch, he is ultra motivated and improving everyday. As soon as he gets up here to UNB this fall and training with me, he will be a mutant. IT IS COMING, the next generation is on my heels! PJ you ain't there yet though!!! I am wiley, smart and am willing to Cheat.

Little bit of fishing tommorow and some training, can't let the kids get ahead.

The Rush

Ever feel like life is moving along to quickly? As you take more on, one task seems to run into another, everything seems rushed and you focus on getting each done in order and lose focus on the process. It is mental weakness I have noticed lately. I never have enough time for anything I do, especially training.

When I get to the gym, I am aware I need/want more time than I have and rather than focus on quality of what time I do have, I end up rushing through each routine trying to get my whole list done. I should focus more on the moment. This is my goal this week.

Great news, in the last week we have reset the gym with a new batch of Friction holds, big up to Luigi, the new urethane is awesome. It is so nice to have a new set of problems to work on. It has taken a lot, of the little time I have, to rest the routes but I think it will be worth it to have some fresh motivation.

I find it is hard lately to set real long term projects in the gym. Usually I underestimate myself and end up setting the routes way to easy. It is difficult to set something hard and to your weakness. It helps to have someone else set hard routes too. With Ben in Europe its a lonely game lately. I think tonight though I finally have at least one route which is skin and joint friendly enough to work for a long while. I could not do one move on it tonight, I was super happy. I think it will take a few weeks at least! Time will tell.

This weekend I will be teaching some outdoor climbing courses and hopefully getting on ODIN finally!

New Beginning

Lately I need to tell myself out loud what I am going to do to make myself do it. I am completely exhausted all the time. In a half hour I will begin my new training cycle.

Based on this past years peaks and crashes I am definitely going to periodize properly to get the life when I need it instead of when I don't.

Tonight is a new beginning.

Atlantic Canada's hardest trad route

I think it is time for me to put some focus on outdoor climbing, I have had enough comp climbing and training for the season. Really, the reason I have lost some interest in climbing outdoors locally, is because there are not many hard routes, in large part because of the rock type; it does not lend itself to featured overhanging rock. Therefore, for it to get harder, it just gets more balancy and sharper.

Of course there are some exceptions and those are what I am looking for now. I would really like to find a natural trad line to work, which will take me a few months to get. They are hard to find.

I just posted on the Atlantic climbers forum a request for help to build a list of the hardest trad and mixed lines in Atlantic Canada. Maybe someone out there is also interested and can help?

I do have one route in mind, which is called Odin, an old aid line in Welsford, NB. I looked at it in the past and thought I could free all but 20ft, where it blanks out, but maybe now that I am stronger it will look more possible. I am a bit worried people putting pegs in and out will make this route easier over time, so it would be good to get on it as it is now, as natural as possible.

So maybe I will force myself to get out there, I will put it in writing what I am going to make a point to do in the next while:

Attempt Odin free
Free Odoriferous (one of my previous aid lines in Welsford)
Free the arete at Eagle Rock
Climb The Crush
Finish Loki's revenge free

Hopefully, I can interest someone in joining me?

Vail World Cup 2009 Gravity wins 5-0

My Sad Day


Well, I had high hopes for this years Vail World Cup. Coming off a super strong nationals only a few weeks ago I figured I would do well. No such luck, I got second last! It was by far the worst comp of my life and the most embarrassing.

I felt good warming up, ate well, rested well in luxury with my wife in a fancy condo in Vail, but still blew it. I always try and focus on what I can learn from each failure, but this time I am a bit miffed. Mentally good, physically good, climbing bad.

The only thing I can attribute it to might be my warm up (but I still don't think thats it). At nationals I tried a new warm up routine, which worked well, so I tried it again, but it didn't work this time.

It was one of those, "oh no" moments for me. Everything was great until my first attempt on problem one. I read the beta wrong and hung out to long trying to get the flash. Normally not a big deal, rest until 1 min left and try it again. I rarely attempt a problem more than a couple times in comps anyway. But this time was different, the flash pump I got was so bad I new at the moment I dropped off the first try I might as well not bother pulling on again all day. It was unreal my hands were useless. I knew what I wanted them to do, but they were not listening. I could not hold on to anything the rest of the comp.

This has happened to me before, the proper duration and intensity of warm up have always been my Achilles, therefore in the past I always warmed up more then necessary, to be sure I would not flash pump, reasoning to much was better then to little. However, at nationals I tried a new technique, told to me by a friend, which worked wonders, it left me with more juice then my typical warm up, with no flash pump. I figured it would work again? It didn't. Maybe it was altitude, many guys were crushed by this. Don't know.

In the end you win some you lose some, I just find it frustrating when I can't figure what went wrong, usually I can pin point it, or at least have a general idea, this time I don't get it?

The Wall



I gotta say that the wall was much better than last year, not so much the wall itself as it was the same but the venue was now covered both from rain and sun, which for the competitors was a huge improvement, the walls themselves were good quality and flooring bomber.

Compared to last yer the comp itself was 100% improved from every standpoint. I have to hand it to USA climbing, they did an excellent job all around, I was very impressed how they turned it around this year. In my books last year was the worst organized comp I have attended, this year I would say it was nearly as well done as other world cups, which is a huge compliment. Great work.

The route setting was excellent, I think I can say the routes seemed nearly perfect from many standpoints. I have to be pretty picky to find any flaws, but since I am interested in route setting I will pass a couple comments. I think overall the mens quali routes were a little bit easier than normal (despite my efforts). In my view there was only one problem, which was poorly made. It was women's 4 in the semi's. The first move was a massive dyno, which shut down nearly all the women. Don't get me wrong I think dynos have their place, but this one meant that most of the strongest women who were short had no chance at all, but the taller ones sent at last to the bonus. For me it was just to height dependent to be fair. I guess my general comment would be there were a lot of height dependent moves for both mens and womens. The type of moves that could not be compensated in any way. But overall the setting was awesome.

The judging was fair and consistent, I heard they missed a few calls, but that is totally normal, they did everything they could to make it fair. There was only one bad problem; in semis there was some boundary tape which was in the crease between 2 walls which was not clear and to strong contenders missed it getting called off. I think the call mattered. Really it is the competitors responsibility but I noticed they did a better job explaining the routes and taping to each climber in finals. At least they learned. I think the judges did an excellent job.

Canadian National Championships - Montreal 2009, Allez Up

A couple weeks post Nationals and I am sitting in Vail at a World Cup and finally have time to reflect.

It was fun to be back at Allez Up, which is where I attended my first Nationals in 2005, almost exactly 5 years prior.

The season has been a weird one for me, others years I have always been very consistent, consistent in training, resting, competing and results. This year with much forced time off, I have had the best and worst comps of my career? Go figure.

It has been a perfect pattern this year, 2 months off first comp back climbed strong and won, next weekend got killed. Third comp after another month off won, next weekend killed ect. I seem to do well after a big rest with no expectation and terrible when I feel strong and confident; pattern here? Not 100% sure actually, since there are so many factors at play, overworked, to much travel with no sleep and bad diet etc.

I have found it very hard to figure out what to change, as there are no consistent control variables to compare. More on this later.

Anyway, coming into Montreal I had been having a good season and was hoping to make top 10 which should have left me top 5 overall for the year, which I would have been happy with. I did not feel to much pressure at all, and was feeling generally good with no injuries (benefit of all the down time this year).

Qualifiers was excellent the setting team did a great job the problems were fun and quite hard, I qualified 6th, a perfect spot going into finals. There was one new guy from Colorado, Andre Difelice who blew me away, the only one to send 4 out of five problems, I was impressed. In my mind he was likely to take the win.



Finals saw 10 of us faced with the 5 coolest comp problems I have ever climbed on, in huge part to the awesome volumes by Bolo and Delire!

Here is a video of mens finals #5, aka. the mario kart problem, credit Drtopo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_07BMQRMx8&feature=related

Normally two day comps are not my thing, but I was surprised to be feeling quite good in warm up and was physced to get it on! It went excellently sending 4 out of five problems and flashing all bonuses, which after a technical appeal ruling was enough for the win!

It felt bad however to win on an appeal, but I have been on the wrong side of those decisions before and I guess it was finally my turn to have one go in my favor.

It was a good end to the year with a win at Nationals it also gave me the National Championships overall win for the year for Canada which I was very happy with.

It took five years to get to it and was a long journey of learning, but worth it in the end.

Here is a look at my season so far.

1st Overall Canadian National Championships, Montreal Quebec
1st place North American Championship Speed
1st place Atlantic Regional’s, UNB Tour de Bloc, Fredericton NB
1st place Roc Gym Tour de Bloc, Quebec City, Quebec
4th place Rock Court, Tour de Bloc, Halifax, Nova Scotia
5th place Delire, Tour de Bloc, Quebec
7th place North American Championships Lead

BOLO Climbing Volumes near launch

For the past few months Ghislain Losier and I have paired up to create a company, Bolo Climbing Volumes, to provide large climbing volumes and features to the climbing industry. Distinctly lacking in North America, volumes are the cornerstone of European climbing walls and competitions.

We have established a better texture formula than any I have ever climbed on, but are still working out the production and logistical kinks, before we officially launch. We have however, been selling our prototypes off at majorly discounted rates for testing and feedback. People are loving them! Here is a pic of 2 recent prototypes.


1 Meter Deep Pinch


4ft Large Pyramid


Zig pouring some early resin holds in my garage.


Zig gettin after the glassin.

Newfoundland

I just got back from St. John's Newfoundland for work. It was not at all what I expected. The harbor is far most industrial with ugly mine cuts into the rock than pretty postcards depict. None the less I fell in love with the place. The people are friendly, in maritime style, and generally everyone is willing to help with anything.

To anyone visiting I recommend the hike up Signal Hill, it was gorgeous and 5 min to its start, from downtown. I was pleasantly surprised that there are trials everywhere, apparently a wealthy businessman established them all over the city, it really adds to the appeal for me.

I took the brief opportunity to check out Newfoundlands only climbing gym, Wallnuts. The place was packed and business seemed great. The gym is not very big but the crew of climbers is awesome and it is well run. I think layout changes could easily make far more appealing angle changes for better climbing but everyone there seemed content. The hold selection was quite good also.

I was a bit surprised by the lack of difficult problems, given the amount of outdoor rock for people to get strong on and stay physced. The place is an untapped gem from what I can see!

I will definitely be back to Newf for work and plan a longer trip next time for some exploration. 5 star.

New on the home front - Riley

After years of fighting it I gave and Ellen and I got a pup and I am sure glad I did! I pictured nyself the hard ass but the little guy is awesome. Chicks dig him too ;)

Mexico

Ellen and I actually took a laid back vacation for the first time ever, with some convincing friends (Simon and Krista) to the sunny beaches of Riviera Maya, Mexico.

Normally not my cup of tea, to sit and relax, I actually found in my old age I enjoyed it to a point. We did some cool stuff, crazy cool snorkeling in Cenotes (water filled caverns), horse back riding, sea dooing and scuba.

Now scuba I thought we be rad, but between wanting to vomit from the rough sea and the nearly complete lack of any instruction it was probably not the greatest experience. In fact, I distinctly remember uttering between waves of nausea I would never do it again for a million dollars. Typical of type 3 fun, I now would love to go again, subject to less vomitus conditions.

Here is my amigo Niki the snapping Chihuahua and a pic of our resort beach.

UNB Regionals Tour de Bloc 2009

This past weekend was Atlantic Regionals here in Fredericton. I was really happy with the turnout, climbers came from Calgary, Toronto, Quebec, Halifax, Saint John and Moncton, a great turnout for the East.

The problems were really well set and separated everyone easily. I heard a lot of complaining from the away folk saying how the qualifiers were harder than they are used to which gave me a laugh. I have always told them we are tough and hardy out here.

Qualifiers went well, I am still not anywhere near 100%, my finger and hand cannot bear weight in certain positions due to the pinky injury which more than anything plays with my head when commiting to dynamic moves. I try to climb as static as possible but as I get near my limit this inevitably breaks down.

Despite this I was able to qualify in 2nd. Finals definitly went well though I flashed 3 of the four problems, 2 of which no one else flashed and only a couple sent at all. In the end I won by quite alot which felt great on home turf and has given me some confidence in my hand.

I think that I had no expectations going into this comp which allowed me to just climb for fun and relax and see tricky sequences easier than normal. My strength isn't there but I seem to make up for it with other aspects like focus relaxation and experience. It is neat that it takes the loss of one aspect to force you to explore the other and maximize them. I love climbing for the learning process, it never stops.

Heart

I hadn't had the heart to post in the last while. I have a bad hand injury I have been trying to pretend is not there.

Right after the Quebec comp I drove back to Toronto picked Dad up and headed back for Montreal. We got caught in a snowstorm like I have never seen. It took us 12 hours for the 5 hr drive, I was exhausted. The next morning I got up and headed to quebec city dropped Dad off and headed straight for Nova Scotia to try and get there in time for the next Tour de Bloc at the Rock Court. By 10pm I had Picked up Ellen and Holly and made it to the hotel.

I was completely wasted but to be honest thought the comp would be quite easy. Quebec city had gone very well with a super strong field despite my 2 months off and I figured a local comp at a gym I new well would be cake. I had confidence and motivation.

During qualifiers I chatted with the folks I had not seen in months due to my departure and did not warm up to well. I was not worried about making finals and flashed most stuff I tried while warming up. However before I did my 6 problems I jumped on a mid level advanced route probally V6 or so and my foot slipped on a small crimp and boom...I tore something when I caught myself.

I new I was cold and not warmed up, a amature mistake, stupid and now a month later I am still paying for it. Completely disheartening. Two months off, all healed physced, climbing great back on for a week and a bit and injured again cause I am dumb.

Been here before and I know what to do but the question is always can the season be salvaged comp wise. You just need a certain amount of time to heal and you never really know hoe long that will be physically then confidence wise, confidence that the hand can really take the rigors of competing.

It is healing now despite the fact that I was told I may have ripped the tendon off the attachment. The problem is with my pinky mostly, some with the ring finger and a bit with my middle. As long as I buddy tape and the fingers don't separate climbing static is bearable but I feel so strong right now limiting myself is hard...yet absolutely necessary. The chance of any strength gains are gone for the season, it is now about improving other things like technique and endurance. I am just hoping to get back enough hand strength to compete and make the team for next year without further injury.

Its too bad I don't have a lead and speed climbing wall to train on, it would provide a good change and is far easier on the tendons. I learned this year I really like rope comps, there just inn't enough to really bother specializing, they are fun only for me but if I want to not get my ass kicked in China I need to practice, at least a couple times before I go :) hahhhhahah.

I hate injuries.

Tour de Bloc Roc Gym 2009

Wow, it has been too long, between moving home and getting back to work things have been crazy!

While I was still in TO I decided last minute to drive to Quebec city for the 2009 Tour de Bloc at Roc Gym. I had no expectations since I had not climbed for a long time but I needed to try and get a few points or making the national team would be impossible for me, there just are not many comps left.

My strategy was to climb as little as possible in qualifiers and flash what I can max 3 tries in qualifiers and finals if I made it.

The problems were really great quality this year, Bob did a great job and you can tell he is turning the gym around there, in the past it has been plagued with issues during the comp but this year it was smooth.

Qualifiers went good I qualified 2nd behind Seb and fell only a few times which surprised me. What was of no surprise was the amount of power endurance I had lost. My power was good but only for one shot ahahhah.

Finals Went great I limited my attempts as planned and pulled out the win, sending 2 of 4 problems and coming close on the other 2.

Here is a pic of the sweet 45 degree at roc gym with the horrid paint job.